Last Updated on April 23, 2024 by Marybeth
There is no other destination in all of Florida quite like Cedar Key. With a population of less than 800, maybe 12,000 visitors a year, and a remote location at the end of one long road, this small town isn’t on everyone’s travel list. And that’s the beauty of Cedar Key.
Visitors vacation here for kayaking, fishing, observing nature, strolling the historic main street, visiting art galleries, and dining waterfront and downtown. With several boat tour companies, paddle board and kayak rental companies, and multiple fishing charters in town – more info here – spending a day on the water is a big draw for many. And the number of art galleries and shops in the approximate 2 square miles that makes up Cedar Key will surprise you.
Surrounded by state parks and protected wetlands, Cedar Key is beloved by naturalists. The Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge and the Cedar Key Scrub State Reserve are two to check out. Paddling to Atsena Otie Key is a bucket-list activity for visitors. The original settlement for Cedar Key was established on this island in the 1820s. Throughout the next 55 years, after two hurricanes – and annihilation during the Civil War by the Union Army – civilization on Atsena Otie Key was no longer. A new town was established on Way Key – the current site of today’s Cedar Key. At Atsena Otie Key you’ll find a sandy beach, traces of old building foundations, and the historic cemetery dating back to 1877. Bring bug spray; but don’t let this tip deter you. Visiting Atsena Otie Key is an easy paddle (or book a drop-off charter) and a fascinating day trip.
Restaurants, bars, and coffee shops? We counted 19!
So there is something for everyone to do in Cedar Key. If you are an ‘everyone’ for whom a laid-back town that encourages you to slow down and explore at leisure aligns with your travel desires. Not for adrenaline junkies, you may decide, but that depends on what makes your heart race. For many travelers it’s the combination of old-Florida charm, a creative community, great local food with a view, with that under-the-tourist-radar sensibility.
I found this perfect description for how Cedar Key, and Firefly Resort Cottages, our home-away-from-home for this trip, made us feel: sated joy. A joy that does not hunger for more and more, but rests, satisfied.
STAY
Cedar Key does hospitality right. This close-knit community offers a range of restored vintage cottage-style lodgings, a bed and breakfast, motels, and a historic hotel. For this trip we chose a cluster of historic cottages the color of sunshine, with an intriguing past.
Hurricane Idalia hit Cedar Key hard at the end of August, 2023. Our hearts were heavy, once again (we watched in horror as Hermine hit hard, with damage estimated to be over $10 million, in 2016) as Idalia bore down on this luminous little town we’d fallen in love with years ago. No strangers to violent weather, the town rallied around – once again – to help each other clean up and build back.
Our visit to Firefly Resort Cottages saw very little, if any, traces of damage from that most recent hurricane. Perhaps a wall that had been repaired still needed a little paint, and we understand that the gardens – which looked lush and enchanting to us – were still recovering. One amazing, and shocking, reminder of how bad the hurricane was here was the mark of how high the waters rose during Hurricane Idalia, written on the door jamb.
The gentle stillness surrounded us, and the idyllic allure of the cottages, pathways, trees, gathering areas, and water view spoke of nothing but harmony. The few remaining signs of the bashing meted out by hurricanes, while horrifying, are a good reminder of how fleeting harmony can be. And how remarkably strong this town’s residents and business owners are.
Innkeepers Ian and Darrin have the best story to tell of how they accidentally came upon Cedar Key and decided it was one of the most beautiful places they had ever seen. They couldn’t believe someone or some company hadn’t come along and ruined it. “We were stoked, we were desperate, we were in love.”
Their journey to discover ‘their place’ began in Seattle, giving up corporate jobs, loading up their Airstream, and just going. I’ve written about their story before, and it continues to amuse and amaze. You must read it for yourself: here.
In our Top 21 Low-Key Old-Florida Places to Stay for Your Next Escape, I wrote, “I am laughing afresh as I re-read their story.” As I laughed, I also fell a bit in love myself, from afar. With the owners’ determination to fix collapsing foundations, broken windows, and leaky roofs. And with the property itself, and its transformative powers – just looking at the photos of the brave bold cottages that have stood the test of time convinced us to travel here to experience Firefly Resort Cottages ourselves.
These old Florida cracker-style cottages were built in the 1950s, and some have the kind of compelling history that may have raised eyebrows (the best kind of history!) The cottages served as a vet’s office, and a bait shop, but the secret weekly men’s-only card game gambling that happened in Paradise Cottage sounds the most fun. Fun it was, until 1973 and the new owner, Ms. Betty Rose Cook, discovered this cottage was the only one kept in repair while the others were falling apart. As Ian and Darrin tell it, Ms. Betty Rose Anne “put an end to that nonsense.”
Our cottage was The Writer’s Cottage, with a view to the water and a large 2-tiered deck ideal for morning coffee, where the silence was broken only by birdsong. So named because writer John Muir spent time in Cedar Key while recovering from malaria and writing part of his travelogue “A Thousand Mile Walk to the Gulf,” you also are entreated to sit down and write if the inspiration grabs you.
Each cottage is different, furnished with imagination, ingenuity, and often, humor. A ‘task’ that I found captivating was to look closely at all the art pieces, decor choices (and yes, examining the label on the 100% long staple cotton sheets so that I can get some for our little bungalow!)
Your hosts at Firefly Resort Cottages are around if you need them. You may rarely see them, and I’m thinking this is thoughtfully deliberate on their part. The unspoken feeling here is to just be. Your welcome kit includes What am I doing in Cedar Key? a guide for everything you need to know about the resort and the town, with helpful resources for all activities and not-to-miss stops. What resonated most for us is written on the first page:
“If you do little else, take the time to connect with nature. Stand at the edge of the water, open your eyes to all manner of life teeming around you and your ears to the sounds nature makes. We can tell you a lot of what we would do if not hosting Firefly is nothing. If we could, we would give you permission to also do nothing and just be.”
If you can pry yourself away from this magical paradise, delights around town await.
PLAY
A visit to Cedar Key isn’t complete without a stop at this illustrious tiki bar. Just as singular as Cedar Key itself is, there is no other tiki bar known to bar aficionados like this one. The tiki bar is a 1-minute drive or a 15-minute walk north of Firefly. Mostly open air and weather-dependent, check your weather report before arrival. The Tiki Bar, the motel rooms, and Lenny’s Tiki Taste Tour food truck (now open 7 days a week) are all 21+ only.
We were eager to visit on this gorgeous evening, because of the Tiki Bar’s elevated cool factor and the funky decor, but also to see if they still had these bar stools from our years-ago visit:
They do! I saw one:
Waterfront seating today:
The Tiki Bar has live music, a free Tiki Taxi golf cart, the friendliest bartenders, a fire pit for chilly nights, and just so much cool stuff to look at. Check their Instagram for the music schedule and drink specials.
Head downtown, south from Firefly Resort Cottages, to visit the quaint main street area. Most businesses are on, or just off of, 2nd Street.
Our day to explore dawned gray with threatening rains. Not great for photos, but the sparkling authenticity of this town shone through nevertheless.
Named for the year Cedar Key was founded, this bright little coffee, breakfast and lunch shop made our morning. The staff, with their upbeat personalities, brought sunshine to our day. The breakfast sandwiches were amazing. We saw a frozen chocolate lime pie and a Snickers latte come out – will try that next visit!
On the National Register of Historic Buildings, this stately hotel was established in 1859. Their tagline is “Welcome to one of Florida’s Most Famous Bed & Breakfast Inns” but we’ve heard even more about their famous bar, The Neptune Lounge. Visit their Facebook page for live music schedule and meal specials.
Coffee, smoothies, breakfast and lunch: quiche, flatbreads, avocado toast, scones, and more, including wine and beer! We saw on their Instagram that they sometimes have live music as well.
When you see a name like Thirst Emporium, you just know a good time will be had! A bar attached to photography studio, Bonish Studio: Photography, Oddities & Libations: the best combo, we say, but we had to leave town before they opened. Next time!
More photos of downtown:
Cross over the C Street bridge onto Dock Street for waterfront restaurants, shops, and lodging.
Open air covered patio overlooking the water and downtown, Big Deck offers cold drinks, live music, and highly lauded food (we didn’t eat here but I combed through many great reviews.) Don’t let our gray day photo keep you away; the tropical atmosphere and amiable staff is mentioned over and over.
83 West and 29 North at 83 West
Two unique dining experiences under one roof: 83 West is a casual bar and restaurant where you order at the bar. Indoor and outdoor seating. 29 North is located on the second floor (elevator available) and offers full service dining. We didn’t eat here but the water views are amazing, and reviews are wonderful.
“Follow the blue stairs to happiness,” Steamers tells us, and it’s worth the climb! Our coconut shrimp and fish tacos were fantastic. You’ll find steamed and fried seafood menu items, as well as wings, salads, chowder, burgers, and more. The mesmerizing water views and the attentive staff, along with live music, make for an enjoyable time.
“Funky shack at the top of the stairs,” The Tipsy Cow is another welcoming waterfront establishment overlooking the vast waters of the Gulf. Dogs are welcomed, too, and have their own Doggie Menu to choose from. The people menu is fun to read, as is their Facebook page! Groovy fries and Best Damn Beef tacos hit the spot. You’ll find burgers, wings, tacos, quesadillas, seafood, frozen drinks, and full bar.
While on Dock Street make your way up the ramp by Island Trading Post (and stop in for a souvenir for the people you left at home) and at the top you’ll find the lovely courtyard of Harbor Master Suites.
Set your travel GPS to bring you to Cedar Key. The archipelago jutting almost four miles out into the Gulf is brimming with discoveries for you travelers craving serenity, and just enough opportunities for adventure and exploration that you’ll feel happily tired at the end of your day. Firefly Resort Cottages awaits, for the best rest and recuperation.
Follow Firefly Resort Cottages on Facebook.
Firefly Resort Cottages welcomes guests age 12+. Two guests maximum per cottage.
Our visit to Firefly Resort Cottages was hosted, and as always, our opinions are our own.
