Last Updated on October 2, 2019 by Marybeth
If one of your main goals when vacationing in Florida is to park yourself in a beach chair by the ocean, we’re with you. Our beloved state’s 663 miles of beach beckon to most visitors (the rest are off standing in long lines, wearing mouse ears) and we locals have long known the pull of the ocean: our caramel-colored skin, and wrinkles, are proof. (I know I know: I should speak for myself. The young perfect beauties seen on today’s early morning beach walk made me wistful for my own teenage years, and that summer-scented bottle of Sea & Ski that I’m pretty sure didn’t have an SPF…)
If you just headed straight to the beach, you’d miss out on some of Florida’s most authentic fishing villages. Bristling with history – and some of the best seafood you’ve ever tasted – these little gems are a must-stop on your way to or from the beach. We’re guessing you’ve heard of some, but there may be at least one you haven’t…
Some villages are close to the beach while others will inspire you to plan a day trip from your beach town. Starting in the Panhandle and working our way east and south:
APALACHICOLA
Photo courtesy of John Gilbert. For more beautiful photos follow him on Instagram @jtgilbert58.
“Oyster Town” and “Land of the Friendly People” describe Apalachicola, an old-timey Florida town with only one stoplight and no high rises. The thriving oyster industry has faltered in the last ten years, as the oysters are facing extinction due to various culprits, including a battle with Georgia over water flow. There is hope for Apalachicola and its oysters: the University of Florida is partnering with the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission – the FWC – to restore the oyster’s habitat. Read the fascinating story here, “Where Have All the Oysters Gone?” written by Katie Hendrick for Flamingo Magazine – Florida’s only state wide feature magazine written by and for Floridians (and travelers, who want the authentic and meaningful scoop!)
Despite the faltering oyster population, this small town boasts over 20 restaurants – many of them specializing in seafood – and most are independently owned. For such a small town Apalachicola has masses of shops filled with antiques, maritime gifts, art created by locals, fun clothing, and so much more.
SWIM
St. George Island is just 12 miles south. St. George Island State Park charges $4 per single occupant vehicle, $6 for 2 or more people per vehicle. Restrooms, picnic tables and pavilions are available. No lifeguards.
PLAY
You know by “play” we mean sitting by the water listening to live music sipping a cold one, right? Also good food is a plus but convivial atmosphere comes first. In Apalachicola we couldn’t find one place that offers both waterfront dining and live music, so try Boss Oyster for its views, food and seafood-dive casual atmosphere, and Tamara’s Cafe for their upscale food offerings and live music.
STAY
The Gibson Inn was built in 1907 and calls itself – righfully so – “The Grand Dame of old Florida.” Each room is unique and some have been updated – ask for one when you call. Enjoy a cocktail at their Parlor Bar, or dine at Apalachicola’s newest culinary destination, The Franklin.
SEAFOOD FEST
The Florida Seafood Festival is the state’s oldest maritime event and is held annually in November.
Apalachicola is located in Florida’s panhandle a little over an hour east of Panama City Beach.
ST. MARKS
Photo courtesy of Brennan Cross of Cross Photography, visit his site at BCrossPhotography.com
You would think we would have heard of the 3rd oldest settlement in North America! Shame on us (and you, perhaps?) Also home to the 2nd oldest lighthouse in Florida, St. Marks has a checkered past involving Indians, Spanish explorers and pirates (you have to love it when pirates are involved!) Read more about St. Marks intriguing history on Visit Wakulla. Known by many (and us, now) as a fishing village for commercial and sport fishing, this small historic town is a designated Florida Waterfronts Partnership Community focusing on revitalization projects and welcoming visitors to its many small town charms.
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Bald Point State Park on Alligator Point is a narrow beach 32 miles southwest of St. Marks, and the more expansive St. George Island State Park is 65 miles to the west.
PLAY
Riverside Cafe on the River has water views and also live music, click their name for the event schedule and to view their varied menu.
STAY
Choose between Sweet Magnolia Inn B & B, a 3 minute walk from the cafe, or Shell Island Fish Camp, just a mile away on the riverfront.
SEAFOOD FEST
The St. Marks Stone Crab Festival is held at the end of October. Click the link for exact dates and times.
St. Marks is located 20 miles south of Tallahassee.
STEINHATCHEE
Photo courtesy of Jennifer @jmjohnso on Instagram
Once upon a time called Achenahattchee (sounds like a sneeze!) Steinhatchee has a similar coming-of-age history as that of St. Marks, involving Spanish conquistadors, Indians and pirates, and also a claim of signs of man as early as 12,000 B.C. Through the years commercial fishing was a mainstay for locals, from sponge fishing to mullet and their roe, to current day catches of stone crabs, blue crabs, black mullet, bait shrimp and the most popular catch of all, scallops. Scallop season is from July to mid-September during which Steinhatchee has a huge influx of visitors.
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The closest beach to Steinhatchee is Hagens Cove, which is more of a boaters/fisherman’s paradise than a traditional beach-lover’s beach. Hiking trails, observation towers, pavilions and picnic areas can be found here. 15 miles NW of Steinhatchee, Hagens Cove is a great place to wade for scallops (no boat needed!) We’ve heard rumors of a clothing-optional section of this cove, but haven’t been able to substantiate. (Let us know if you find out!)
PLAY
Who Dat Bar and Grill is on the water, serving fresh local seafood and has live music on occasion.
STAY
You can choose from old-fashioned – the Steinhatchee River Inn, to upscale – Steinhatchee Landing Resort, or stay where you play at the Good Times Motel and Marina (same location as Who Dat.)
SEAFOOD FEST
We just missed the Steinhatchee Fiddler Crab Festival is held mid February . Check with the Steinhatchee Chamber of Commerce for more details.
Steinhatchee is located 70 miles west of Gainesville.
CEDAR KEY
Cedar Key, on Florida’s Nature Coast, is one of the Top Ten Coolest Towns in America. The close-knit community has been hard at work rebuilding after Hurricane Hermine, and things are once again sparkly and open for business. As in most Florida towns the Indians, the Spanish, and a surfeit of pirates populate the past. As do some fierce Civil War battles. Both the Faber and the Eagle pencil companies established cedar saw mills on the island that is now Cedar Key (Way Key, then) and on Atsena Otie Key (called Cedar Key then; I know, confusing) and the world’s supply of pencils came from the trees here. A hurricane in 1896 (these havoc-wreaking hurricanes!) wiped out the mills and the town of Atsena Otie, and all that remains today is a graveyard with headstones dating from the early 1800’s. Some say it’s haunted.
You have to visit this tiki bar while you’re in Cedar Key: The Hideaway Tiki Bar
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There is a little beach of sorts in Cedar Key, the Cedar Key City Park located at the intersection of 2nd and A Streets. Public restrooms, a playground and covered pavillion are available. The calm waters surrounding Cedar Key are perfect for kayaking and stand up paddleboarding as well as swimming.
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A short drive or bike ride from the center of town is the quirky Hideaway Tiki Bar, pictured above. This waterfront bar is open-air and weather dependent, so make sure to visit on a clear day or night.
STAY
With lush shady gardens, water views, and an amazingly hard working, friendly staff, Faraway Inn is the place to stay. You can bring your dog! Read more about this magical place here.
SEAFOOD FEST
Cedar Key Seafood Festival will be held October 21-22, 2017. For more information visit the Cedar Key Chamber of Commerce.
Garden view past a cottage, with the water in the background at Faraway Inn
Cedar Key is located on Florida’s Gulf coast, approximately 1 hour south west of Gainesville and 1 hour north west of Orlando.
TARPON SPRINGS
Tarpon Springs is known for its sponge industry, started by Greek immigrants in the 1880’s. This tiny, vibrant waterfront town still has a large population of Greek-Americans, a higher percentage than any other town in America. (The high school sports teams are nicknamed “The Spongers!”) Visit the many shops along Dodecanese Blvd. including the Sponge-o-rama Museum and Sponge Factory. Take a sightseeing tour offered by various companies – visit Sponge Docks for a detailed list of attractions and sightseeing. Best of all is the plethora of authentic Greek restaurants. For a list and a comprehensive, fascinating article on Tarpon Springs go to Authentic Florida.
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Gorgeous and unspoiled Honeymoon Island State Park is just 10 miles south of Tarpon Springs. Plentiful parking, concession with facilities and some of the best nature trails in the area, the park charges $8 per multi person vehicle and $4 for single occupant vehicle.
PLAY
Rusty Bellies Waterfront Grill checks all the boxes (including a fun name!) of a water view, live entertainment, and good food.
STAY
The old-Florida, affordable mom-and-pop Palm Court Motel is just down the road in Dunedin, or stay right in Tarpon Springs at a B & B, at Ashley’s Victorian Haven or The 1910 Inn.
SEAFOOD FEST
Tarpon Springs’ Sponge Docks Seafood Festival will be held November 8-10, 2019.
Tarpon Springs is located on Florida’s gulf coast, 30 miles north west of Tampa and 114 miles south west of Orlando.
CORTEZ
Ancestors of the original founding families still live and work the water here in this tiny, authentic fishing village – one of the oldest remaining in the country. Fiercely proud and protective of their craft and their town, it comes as a surprise that four movies have been filmed here – they allowed that? (Great Expectations – the 1998 version – A Flash of Green, Out of Time and Palmetto.) Developers have tried to come in and change everything, but to prevent that F.I.S.H. – The Florida Institute for Saltwater Heritage was formed to spearhead the purchase of 100 acres of land along Sarasota Bay to be used as a nature preserve. The annual Cortez Commercial Fishing Festival’s proceeds have helped with this purchase.
Visit the Florida Maritime Museum to learn more about this quaint, rustic village. Make sure to take time to walk around and take in the surroundings; historic cottages with names like “Smileys” and the “William Guthrie House” – which can be rented – will draw you in and make you want to stay awhile.
SWIM
Bradenton Beach is just across the bridge, less than a mile away. Free parking, concessions, grills and restrooms under shady trees are available at the southern end of Bradenton Beach at Coquina Gulfside Park.
PLAY
The Starfish Company Dockside Restaurant is almost famous (and therefore often has long wait times) so stroll a little down the road to the Swordfish Grill and Tiki Bar for amazing, relaxing water views, good food and live music.
STAY
Pelican Post Motel is an updated old-Florida motel with traditional rooms and also a separate historic cottage (with space for up to 5 people) that was moved there by barge to house workers building the new bridge in 1921. Once you cross over the bridge in Bradenton Beach, the motel is just a couple of blocks away, one block away from the vibrant main street and a block and half to the beach. Read more about Pelican Post and Bradenton Beach, here.
SEAFOOD FEST
This year the Cortez Commercial Fishing Festival is held mid- February. Check the F.I.S.H website for more details.
Peaceful and affordable Pelican Post Motel
Cortez is located on Florida’s gulf coast 1 mile west of Bradenton Beach and 36 miles south of St. Petersburg.
PORT SALERNO
Port Salerno is one of the last still-operating commercial fishing villages on the east coast of Florida. This small fishing village overlooks the Manatee Pocket, which leads to the St. Lucie Inlet and on to the Atlantic Ocean. The boardwalk that connects the shops, restaurants, art galleries, bars and the hotel is often called the Pocket Walk. The Fish House Art Center here is “home” to resident artists’ studios where they create while you watch and their work is available for purchase.
Port Salerno, located just south of Stuart, was incorporated in 1921. Named, because of the many Italian emigrants, after Salerno, Italy, Port Salerno has had a strong commercial fishing presence since the 1930’s. Back then shark fishing was prevalent, and in later years the large net ban caused the number of commercial fishermen to dwindle, but today the working boats still go out and supply area restaurants with fresh catch.
SWIM
Port Salerno and Stuart are primarily boating communities, but the beach is a short drive away. Our favorite spot to enjoy the ocean is Bathtub Reef Beach, a great place to swim in calm waters caused by a reef just offshore. Free public parking, new dune restoration and a beautiful big pavilion can be found here. Restroom facilities are 100 yards north at Rocks Beach.
PLAY
The largest family-owned and operated waterfront restaurant in Martin County is The Twisted Tuna, with multiple places to sit and enjoy the view inside and out. Live music every day and a large and varied menu will keep everyone happy.
STAY
Pirate’s Cove Resort and Marina is just steps away from the shops and restaurants, and has it’s own restaurant and tiki bar as well.
SEAFOOD FEST
The Port Salerno Seafood Festival is held at the end January; check their site for details.
Port Salerno is located on Florida’s east coast 38 miles north of West Palm Beach and 5 miles south of Stuart.
Most of the historic fishing villages in this article have been designated as a Waterfronts Florida Partnership Communities. The Waterfronts Florida Program offers help to coastal local governments in Florida to revitalize their working waterfronts by providing resources and technical assistance for planning. Find out what other Florida towns have been designated on Floridajobs.org.
Give us your input on these historic fishing villages; the ones we’ve written about and the others we haven’t gotten to yet! And also, had you heard of St. Marks?
